The Long History Of Jodhpurs

By Jerri Perry


Most of us know jodhpurs mainly as riding pants and actually may have thought they'd disappeared from the scene. The distinctive flared pants were once familiar sights in the hunt field, at military and police headquarters, and on Hollywood movie sets. Today, however, styles have changed and the long riding pants are now form-fitting.

What became known as the jodhpur pant was loose at the hip and thigh, tight below the knee, and extended to the ankle. This style was traditional male garb in the orient and well-suited to riding, with freedom of movement for hip and thigh and a snug fit at the legs to give a good grip and minimize chafing. Modern stretch pants can give freedom of movement without the flare, which is why that distinctive look has disappeared.

The distinctive pant spread to England in the late 19th century, when Sir Pratap Singh of Jodhpur brought his polo team over for the Queen's Jubilee and won many contests. The Indian team wore their traditional riding pants, which caught on with novelty-loving, trend-following English players. They came up with breeches, which had a flared hip but stopped at mid-calf and were worn with tall boots, rather than the low shoes worn in India.

This adaptation was adopted by the rest of the equestrian world, especially after the 1920s when women began to ride astride. It became a familiar look for military staff officers in the west, in Nazi Germany, and in the USSR. Tall boots were part of this sartorial symbol of authority. Motorcycle police also stomp around in tall boots, but the fact that the flare was retained until recently made many think that they were wearing jodhpurs.

However, the true jodhpur that extended to the ankle became standard wear for children, grooms, and for informal occasions. Short boots, called paddock boots, are better for children, who grow out of their shoes quickly, and are also suitable for working around horses and stables. Instructors say that it's easier to see that riders are keeping the correct leg position when the full-length pants and shorter boots are worn.

Adults also often wear them with low boots and half-chaps or leggings, which protect the lower leg from chafing against the stirrup leathers. They make good work clothes around the barn. Riders seldom want to wear their tall, highly-polished boots for stable chores.

The pants are made with knee patches, both for protection and to help the rider grip the saddle, and with the seams on the outside of the leg to minimize rubbing. More modern styles often have seat patches as well, again for better grip, and may have the whole seat and inner leg lined with non-slip fabric fabric or leather. Seams need to be very strong to withstand the stress of vigorous equestrian exercise.

Jodhpurs in all colors are acceptable for informal occasions, but competition usually requires traditional beige or white. Saddlebred show riders wear a special style with a flared cuff that comes low over the heel, always in dark blue or black.




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